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Gendered Drinking in Colonial Morocco
Abstract by Dr. Graham Cornwell On Session 165  (Gendered Vices and Devices)

On Saturday, October 12 at 11:00 am

2013 Annual Meeting

Abstract
This paper examines tea consumption in Morocco during the last two decades of French colonial rule. It looks at notions of domesticity, consumption, and national identity in popular colonial publications. Although Chinese gunpowder green tea was widely available in major cities nearly a century before, tea became the national drink only during the French Protectorate period (1912-1956). French colonial authorities and colonists themselves clearly marked colonial difference on consumption lines--Moroccans drank tea, while Europeans drank coffee and alcohol--and they instituted policies based on this assumption. Consumption practices were also gendered. French writings depicted tea drinking as an inherently male activity. Periodicals, cookbooks, and advertisements invited French colonial women to consume the exotic by drinking tea and recreating “authentic” Moroccan tea rituals in their homes. French colonial officials believed tea was an inherently Moroccan drink and a necessity for social stability. Hubert Lyautey, the French Resident-General of Morocco from 1912 to 1925, implemented a “policy of tea and sugar” during World War I. During World War II, Moroccans received tea and sugar as two of only five rations supplied. Colonial periodicals like Maroc Presse and La Vigie Marocaine frequently discussed Moroccan tea rituals, placing tea drinking exclusively in spaces dominated by men. An array of newspaper and magazine articles as well as cookbooks and advertisements imagined tea as a Moroccan male sphere, but these publications targeted French colonial women. They taught them how to recreate authentic tea rituals in their homes and with friends, and thus invited French women to participate in the colonial project as consumers of the colonial exotic. How did various sources define the ideal tea drinker differently? Using Bourdieu's ideas about the social construction of taste as a starting point, I ask how these definitions relied on consumers’ internalization of social hierarchies. For French colonials, drinking tea involved consciously emphasizing the Moroccan-ness of tea. It meant replicating an elaborate tea ritual while divorcing it from its social and symbolic significance. I hope to revise two main ideas about tea in Morocco. First, I hope to include women--as purchasers and drinkers--into the story of tea in Morocco, which, until now, has primarily focused on the role of men. Second, I hope to demonstrate how tea became a national symbol through colonial practices of social and cultural distinction on the part of both the French colonials and the Moroccans under French rule.
Discipline
History
Geographic Area
Maghreb
Morocco
Sub Area
None