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Fashioning the Ummah – A Thoroughly Modern Muslim Movement
Abstract
Consider the following contesting points of view: In the recent publication, Women of the Islamic State: A Manifesto on Women, authored by the Al-Khanssaa Brigade – an all-female militia set-up by the Islamic State, and translated by the Quilliam Foundation, there is a call for women to righteously serve the ummah and rise against the enemies of the Islamic State. Women, the manifesto professes, are “being kept away from paradise” because the “soldiers of Satan under the guise of development, progress and culture give into temptations of mind and conscience” (20) – pointing to a focus on aesthetics (fashion and beauty) as an example of modern concepts polluting Muslim girls’ minds and the larger ummah. In contrast, there is a growing popularity of Islamic fashion blog sites – where bloggers painstakingly document their daily sartorial journey and memorialize their clothing choices through text and photographs in an attempt to reconcile modernity with faith and fashion within a global Muslim community. Both narratives make an appeal to a universal ummah - an identity represented through singular religious dress. This paper takes up this point and asks the question: Does Islamic dress or fashion as an individual entity exist or is it merely an affectation of image and language? Who is the “modern Muslim personality?” By focusing on the uncensored writings and pictorial stories of Islamic fashion bloggers – operating beyond borders to a non-descript audience, on sites such as Haute Hijab; The Muslim Girl; Days of Doll; Tales of a Muslim Fashionista; Muslim Street Fashion; Yaz the Spaz; and Slice of Lemon, the intent of this paper is to research the ways in which the blogs operate as a forum for public dialogue, without religious authority, on the fashioning of a Muslim self through the performance of dress. The paper seeks to question what is the position they hope to establish? How do they contribute to the debate? And how do they cultivate an Islamic ummah consciousness and construct a gendered “modern Muslim” identity independent from nation-state identity?
Discipline
Other
Geographic Area
Islamic World
Sub Area
Identity/Representation