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Survival Strategies for Bektashi Tekkes in the Western Balkans: Gjakova (Kosova), Tetova (Macedonia), Gjirokastra (Albania)
Abstract
How did Bektashi tekkes in the western Balkans survive through the 19th and 20th centuries? They were dealt triple blows: the outlawing of the order in Ottoman lands in 1826, foreign occupations and wars across the first half of the 20th century, followed by national policies against religion and against Albanians in the second half of the 20th century. In this paper I analyze the history of three important Bektashi tekkes in the western Balkans in the 19th and 20th centuries in terms of leadership, membership, and networks of communication. In this period the Bektashis in the western Balkans became associated with Albanian movements for education and political power (Skendi, 1967; Clayer, 1990, Duizings, 2000). How did this association affect their survival? Through ethnographic work at the Bektashi tekkes in Gjakova, Tetova, and Gjirokastra, and histories of the particular tekkes (Rexheb, 1970; Bakkal, 1980; Norris, 1993; Hysi, 2004), I have found remarkable evidence of travel by leaders in earlier periods that decreased across the 20th century. At the same time quiet networking of leaders continued through turmoil of the 20th century. Bektashi communities however often found it more secure to continue their practices at this time away from their historic tekkes: on another continent for those of Gjirokastra, in another city for those of Tetovo, or away from the city center as in Gjakova. The reclaiming of their historic tekkes in the last decade of the 20th century has brought forth a period of increased interaction and even conflict. I conclude that whereas physical survival of Bektashi leaders is no longer a central concern, the relations of Bektashis with related Islamic groups on a broader regional level has grown in importance.
Discipline
Anthropology
Geographic Area
Balkans
Sub Area
19th-21st Centuries