Abstract
The textiles recovered from medieval Rayy, Iran, constitute the only corpus of Islamic funerary garb to be found in Iran, let alone outside of Egypt. In addition, most of the corpus has an archaeological context, documented in situ by Erich Schmidt’s joint expedition in the 1930’s. Their manufacture spans a wide variety of geographic sources in the Middle East and beyond. Likewise, their dates of production cover the period of later Abbasid reign (ca. 950-1250 CE), despite belonging to a distinctly Seljuk sepulchral context. These facts alone charge the Rayy corpus with extreme importance, but the significance of their rarity is dwarfed by the insights the silks and other textiles reveal about Seljuk customs, religious beliefs, identity, and administration. While previous scholarship has cast the Seljuks in extremes, either as nomads eschewing orthodox Muslim practices in favor of Turkic customs, or else as patrons under whom pre-Islamic Persian ideals were to flourish, the textiles reveal a picture encapsulating the complexities of Seljuk reign. The inclusions made in the funerary space can, at Rayy, be uniquely contrasted against discarded elements; where practices seem to deviate from Muslim norms, the sheer quantity of the finds reveals context and well-reasoned intentions; and although artistic innovation is observed, it is balanced within a keen awareness of caliphal precedent. The proposed paper, then, will address the nature and extent of the textile finds from Rayy, the methods and limitations in their analysis, and the findings of the research conducted across dozens of museum holdings associated with Rayy, most particularly the Philadelphia Museum of Art, where the archaeological textiles have remained largely unexamined. Key among these findings is evidence linking textiles worn and used in Rayy to local networks of makers and traders. This evidence, in turn, traces Seljuk dependence on artisanal classes in establishing their right to rule the surrounding region of Jibal, as well as the Abbasid empire more broadly.
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