MESA Banner
Wheat Landraces, Small Farmers and Urban Consumers: Revival of Einkorn in Turkey
Abstract
Cultivated for more than 10,000 years, wheat (Triticum) is one of the world’s most widely grown and important crops. Wheat has sustained humans for thousands of years in a multitude of ways. In recent years, there is a global movement to revive wheat landraces. Landraces are typically adapted to a local area and to traditional farming systems. This paper examines the revival of wheat landrace, einkorn (Triticum monoccoccum L. subsp. monoccoccum) through a case study of Turkey, a center of agricultural domestication and diversity of wheat, and contemporary wheat landrace conservation initiatives. While there is a growing literature on the role of niche markets and urban consumers in the alternative food movement, there is limited literature examining the interaction of actors in decision-making processes that balance subsistence and market motivations. By highlighting two current initiatives to revive ancient wheat, einkorn, in northwest Turkey, the rural and urban centers of Bolu and Kastamonu, this paper discusses the transformation of a neglected and underutilized crop only known in local markets to a health food in the supermarket shelves, restaurant menus, and baker shops. The data comes from multiple field trips carried out between 2007 and 2022 in Turkey, each ranging from four weeks to four months. To ensure diversity in the sampling, the research aimed to gather perspectives mostly from six main sub-populations: (1) farmers, (2) local non-profits, (3) international organizations, (4) the private sector, (5) the government, and (6) consumers. The paper further considers the role of individual and collective action by a multitude of actors in the wheat landrace value chain that have ensured access to high quality wheat landrace seeds, promoted the taste of einkorn among urban consumers, created innovative value-added products, and financed the production and marketing of einkorn. This paper argues that while the motivations of these actors are diverse, their actions that span over a decade complement each other and provide room for dialogue and collaborations. These collaborations are critical to foster sustainable organic food systems and agro-ecological transition, and further support global Sustainable Development Goals: a healthy environment, livelihoods of small farmers, and well-being of both urban and rural communities.
Discipline
Sociology
Geographic Area
Turkey
Sub Area
None