Abstract
While Amman is typically described a transit station within the broader post-2003 Iraqi diaspora, about 100,000 Iraqis now call the city home and have no plans to either immigrate abroad as refugees or return to their home country. This impermanent residence is especially challenging for young people, who refer to their condition as hadiga (literally “a garden.”) In this paper, I describe the distinctive practices of hadiga, characterizing it as an orientation to urban space and time through which attachment to both host nation and homeland are negotiated. The impression of Jordan’s static stability and the chaos of events in Iraq is contrasted with traversals of the disorderly landscape of the West Amman, where Iraqi restaurants and cafes in turn reference the collective memory of Baghdad as a modernist utopia. Through ethnographic description of these scales of order and eventfulness, the paper demonstrates how temporalized processes of urban settlement illuminate broader transformations in sociality arising from mass migration in the region.
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